February 2008 Daring Bakers Challenge #16: Julia Child's French Bread

เพิ่งเข้าเป็นสมาชิก Daring Baker เดือนนี้เองค่ะ แต่ก่อนเวลาดูบล็อกเกอร์คนอื่นเขาโพสกัน ก็อยากจะเข้าไปเป็นสมาชิกค่ะ ทุกคนจะชอบทำขนมกันมากเลย และทุกเดือน ก็จะมาทำขนมแบบเดียวกันด้วยสูตรเดียวกัน โดยที่สูตรจะต้องเป็นความลับจนกว่าจะถึงวันที่โพส (คือวันสุดท้านของเดือนค่ะ) เพิ่งได้เข้าเป็นสมาชิกเดือนแรกเอง ตอนนี้สมาชิกเยอะมากเลยค่ะ และดูท่าจะมากขึ้นเรื่อยๆ คงไม่มีใครหยุดการเติบโตของกลุ่มนี้ได้เลยค่ะ

สำหรับเดือนนี้ challenge คือ ขนมปังฝรั่งเศสค่ะ โดยสูตรนี้เป็นสูตร ของ Julia Child ที่เรียกได้ว่าเป็นเจ้าแม่แห่งวงการอาหารฝรั่งเศสในอเมริกา (เธอเสียชีวิตในปี 2004 ในขณะที่มีอายุ 92 ปีค่ะ) จะบอกตรงๆว่าขนมปังฝรั่งเศสคือ challenge ที่แท้จริง เพราะตั้งแต่เริ่มทำขนมปังมาไม่เคยทำได้ถูกใจเลยค่ะขนมปังที่มีส่วนผสมแค่ น้ำ แป้ง เกลือ และยีสต์ยากมากเลยที่จะอร่อย สูตรที่ทำอยู่เป็นประจำจะมีส่วนผสมอื่นด้วยค่ะ(ซึ่งเป็นสูตรที่อร่อยถูกใจเราค่ะ) ส่วนใหญ่แล้วที่ทำออกมาจะค่อนข้างเหนียว แล้วก็เปลือกหนาเกินไป เลยไม่ค่อยชอบเท่าไร

ดั้งนั้นคราวนี้ก็เลยยังหวั่นใจค่ะ ว่าจะทำได้ดีหรือเปล่า เริ่มทำแต่เช้าเลยค่ะ เพราะในสูตรนั้นบอกว่าต้องใช้เวลาประมาณ 7 ชั่วโมงตั้งแต่เริ่มต้นจนเสร็จ (มันก็ตลกดีนะคะ สำหรับขนมปังที่แสนจะธรรมดาแต่มีวิธีทำที่ยาวยืดขนาดนี้) ทำขนมปังเสร็จตอนช่วงบ่ายๆค่ะ แต่อบนานกว่าที่สูตรบอกไว้นิดหน่อย คือ35 นาทีเพราะขนมปังไม่ค่อยมีสีค่ะ

ถ้าจะถามว่าคิดอย่างไงกับขนมปังฝรั่งเศส คราวนี้ก็ต้องยอมรับค่ะ ว่าดีกว่าทุกครั้งที่ผ่านมา เปลือกบางกว่า แต่ก็ยังไม่ค่อยนิ่ม (เป็นคนชอบทานขนมปังนิ่มๆค่ะ) แต่เวลาที่ได้ยินเสียง cracking ของขนมปังตอนที่รอให้มันเย็นตัวลงก็รู้สึกดีนะคะ

หนังจากที่ขนมปังเย็นตัวลงแล้ว ก็จัดการแปลงสภาพค่ะ คือทำให้มันกลายเป็น crouton และแซนวิช crouton ก็ออกมากรอบดีค่ะ แต่แซนวิช พี่ชายเราเขาบอกว่าใหญ่ไปหน่อย (แต่ก็ทานหมดนะ)

สูตรที่เอามาคือสูตรที่ใช้ทำเลยค่ะ แต่จะตัดส่วนที่ไม่ได้ใช้ออก เช่นส่วนของการใช้เครื่อง (นวดมือค่ะสนุกดี) และวิธีการขึ้นรูปเพราะตัวเองทำ Batards 3อันค่ะ

Julia Child's French Bread

Recipe Quantity: 3 - batards (16” x 3”)

Making French Bread:
Step 1: The Dough Mixture – le fraisage (or frasage)

1 3/4 tsp or 7 gr	instant yeast
1/3 cup (75ml)	warm water, not over 100 degrees F/38C in a glass measure
3 1/2 cup (about 1 lb) (490 gr)	all purpose flour, measured by scooping dry measure cups into flour and sweeping off excess
2 1/4 tsp (12 gr)	salt
1 1/4 cups (280 - 300ml)	tepid water @ 70 – 74 degrees/21 - 23C

Stir the yeast in the 1/3 cup warm water and let liquefy completely while measuring flour into mixing bowl. When yeast has liquefied, pour it into the flour along with the salt and the rest of the water.

Stir and cut the liquids into the flour with a rubber spatula, pressing firmly to form a dough and making sure that all the bits of flour and unmassed pieces are gathered in. Turn dough out onto kneading surface, scraping bowl clean. Dough will be soft and sticky.

Turn dough out onto kneading surface, scraping bowl clean. Dough will be soft and sticky. Let the dough rest for 2 – 3 minutes while you wash and dry the bowl .

Step 2: Kneading – petrissage

Start kneading by lifting the near edge of the dough, using a pastry scraper or stiff wide spatula to help you if necessary, and flipping the dough over onto itself. Scrape dough off the surface and slap it down; lift edge and flip it over again, repeating the movement rapidly.

In 2 -3 minutes the dough should have enough body so that you can give it a quick forward push with the heel of your hand as you flip it over. Continue to knead rapidly and vigorously in this way. If the dough remains too sticky, knead in a sprinkling of flour. The whole kneading process will take 5 – 10 minutes, depending on how expert you become.

Shortly after this point, the dough should have developed enough elasticity so it draws back into shape when pushed, indicating the gluten molecules have united and are under tension like a thin web of rubber; the dough should also begin to clean itself off the kneading surface, although it will stick to your fingers if you hold a pinch of dough for more than a second or two.

Let dough rest for 3 – 4 minutes. Knead by hand for a minute. The surface should now look smooth; the dough will be less sticky but will still remain soft. It is now ready for its first rise.

Step 3: First Rising – pointage premier temps (3-5 hours at around 70 degrees)
You now have approximately 3 cups of dough that is to rise to 3 1/2 times its original volume, or to about 10 1/2 cups. Wash and fill the mixing bowl with 10 1/2 cups of tepid water (70 – 80 degrees) and make a mark to indicate that level on the outside of the bowl. Note, that the bowl should have fairly upright sides; if they are too outward slanting, the dough will have difficulty in rising. Pour out the water, dry the bowl, and place the dough in it. Very lightly grease the bowl with butter or kitchen spray as well to prevent the risen dough from sticking to the bowl.

Slip the bowl into a large plastic bag or cover with plastic, and top with a folded bath towel. Set on a wooden surface, marble or stone are too cold. Or on a folded towel or pillow, and let rise free from drafts anyplace where the temperature is around 70 degrees. If the room is too hot, set bowl in water and keep renewing water to maintain around 70 degrees. Dough should take at least 3 – 4 hours to rise to 10 1/2 cups. If temperature is lower than 70 degrees, it will simply take longer.


When fully risen, the dough will be humped into a slight dome, showing that the yeast is still active; it will be light and spongy when pressed. There will usually be some big bubbly blisters on the surface, and if you are using a glass bowl you will see bubbles through the glass.

Step 4: Deflating and Second Rising – rupture; pointage deuxieme temps (1 1/2 to 2 hours at around 70 degrees)
The dough is now ready to be deflated, which will release the yeast engendered gases and redistribute the yeast cells so that the dough will rise again and continue the fermentation process.

With a rubber spatula, dislodge dough from inside of bowl and turn out onto a lightly floured surface, scraping bowl clean. If dough seems damp and sweaty, sprinkle with a tablespoon of flour.

Lightly flour the palms of your hands and flatten the dough firmly but not too roughly into a circle, deflating any gas bubbles by pinching them.

Lift a corner of the near side and flip it down on the far side. Do the same with the left side, then the right side. Finally, lift the near side and tuck it just under the edge of the far side. The mass of dough will look like a rounded cushion.

Slip the sides of your hands under the dough and return it to the bowl. Cover and let rise again, this time to not quite triple, but again until it is dome shaped and light and spongy when touched.

Step 5: Cutting and resting dough before forming loaves
Loosen dough all around inside of bowl and turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Because of its two long rises, the dough will have much more body. If it seems damp and sweaty, sprinkle lightly with flour.

Making clean, sure cuts with a large knife or a bench scraper, divide the dough into:

3 equal pieces for long loaves (batards).

After you have cut each piece, lift one end and flip it over onto the opposite end to fold the dough into two; place dough at far side of kneading surface. Cover loosely with a sheet of plastic and let rest for 5 minutes before forming. This relaxes the gluten enough for shaping but not long enough for dough to begin rising again.

While the dough is resting, prepare the rising surface; smooth the canvas or linen towelling on a large tray or baking sheet, and rub flour thoroughly into the entire surface of the cloth to prevent the dough from sticking

Step 6: Forming the loaves – la tourne; la mise en forme des patons

Because French bread stands free in the oven and is not baked in a pan, it has to be formed in such a way that the tension of the coagulated gluten cloak on the surface will hold the dough in shape.

For Long Loaves - The Batard: (Baguettes are typically much too long for home ovens but the shaping method is the same)

After the 3 pieces of dough have rested 5 minutes, form one piece at a time, keeping the remaining ones covered.

Working rapidly, turn the dough upside down on a lightly floured kneading surface and pat it firmly but not too roughly into an 8 to 10 inch oval with the lightly floured palms of your hands. Deflate any gas bubbles in the dough by pinching them.

Fold the dough in half lengthwise by bringing the far edge down over the near edge.

Being sure that the working surface is always lightly floured so the dough will not stick and tear, which would break the lightly coagulated gluten cloak that is being formed, seal the edges of the dough together, your hands extended, thumbs out at right angles and touching.

Roll the dough a quarter turn forward so the seal is on top.

Flatten the dough again into an oval with the palms of your hands.

Press a trench along the central length of the oval with the side of one hand.

Fold in half again lengthwise.

This time seal the edges together with the heel of one hand, and roll the dough a quarter of a turn toward you so the seal is on the bottom.

Now, by rolling the dough back and forth with the palms of your hands, you will lengthen it into a sausage shape. Start in the middle, placing your right palm on the dough, and your left palm on top of your right hand.

Roll the dough forward and backward rapidly, gradually sliding your hands towards the two ends as the dough lengthens.

Deflate any gas blisters on the surface by pinching them. Repeat the rolling movement rapidly several times until the dough is 16 inches long, or whatever length will fit on your baking sheet. During the extension rolls, keep circumference of dough as even as possible and try to start each roll with the sealed side of the dough down, twisting the rope of dough to straighten the line of seal as necessary. If seal disappears, as it sometimes does with all purpose flour, do not worry.

Place the shaped piece of dough, sealed side up, at one end of the flour rubbed canvas, leaving a free end of canvas 3 to 4 inches wide. The top will crust slightly as the dough rises; it is turned over for baking so the soft, smooth underside will be uppermost.

Pinch a ridge 2 1/2 to 3 inches high in the canvas to make a trough, and a place for the next piece. Cover dough with plastic while you are forming the rest of the loaves.

After all the pieces of dough are in place, brace the two sides of the canvas with long rolling pins, baking sheets or books, if the dough seems very soft and wants to spread out. Cover the dough loosely with flour rubbed dish towel or canvas, and a sheet of plastic. Proceed immediately to the final rising, next step.

Step 7: Final Rise – l’appret - 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours at around 70 degrees

The covered dough is now to rise until almost triple in volume; look carefully at its pre-risen size so that you will be able to judge correctly. It will be light and swollen when risen, but will still feel a little springy when pressed.

It is important that the final rise take place where it is dry; if your kitchen is damp, hot, and steamy, let the bread rise in another room or dough will stick to the canvas and you will have difficulty getting it off and onto another baking sheet. It will turn into bread in the oven whatever happens, but you will have an easier time and a better loaf if you aim for ideal conditions.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees about 30 minutes before estimated baking time.

Step 8: Unmolding risen dough onto baking sheet – le demoulage.
(Mary and Sara note: we are only going to describe the unmolding of The Batard but the unmolding process is the same no matter the shape of your loaf or loaves. The key to unmolding without deflating your bread is slow and gentle!)

The 3 pieces of risen dough are now to be unmolded from the canvas and arranged upside down on the baking sheet. The reason for this reversal is that the present top of the dough has crusted over during its rise; the smooth, soft underside should be uppermost in the oven so that the dough can expand and allow the loaf its final puff of volume. For the unmolding you will need a non-sticking intermediate surface such as a stiff piece of cardboard or plywood sprinkled with cornmeal or pulverized pasta.

Remove rolling pins or braces. Place the long side of the board at one side of the dough; pull the edge of the canvas to flatten it; then raise and flip the dough softly upside down onto the board.

Dough is now lying along one edge of the unmolding board: rest this edge on the right side of a lightly buttered baking sheet. Gently dislodge dough onto baking sheet, keeping same side of the dough uppermost: this is the soft smooth side, which was underneath while dough rose on canvas. If necessary run sides of hands lightly down the length of the dough to straighten it. Unmold the next piece of dough the same way, placing it to the left of the first, leaving a 3 inch space. Unmold the final piece near the left side of the sheet.

Step 9: Slashing top of the dough – la coupe.

The top of each piece of dough is now to be slashed in several places. This opens the covering cloak of gluten and allows a bulge of dough underneath to swell up through the cuts during the first 10 minutes of baking, making decorative patterns in the crust. These are done with a blade that cuts almost horizontally into the dough to a depth of less than half an inch. Start the cut at the middle of the blade, drawing toward you in a swift clean sweep. This is not quite as easy as it sounds, and you will probably make ragged cuts at first; never mind, you will improve with practice. Use an ordinary razor blade and slide one side of it into a cork for safety; or buy a barbers straight razor at a cutlery store.

For a 16 to 18 inch loaf make 3 slashes. Note that those at the two ends go straight down the loaf but are slightly off centre, while the middle slash is at a slight angle between the two. Make the first cut at the far end, then the middle cut, and finally the third. Remember that the blade should lie almost parallel to the surface of the dough. (I made wrong slashes here, forgot that I have to make only 3, I had 5 on my bread).
Step 10: Baking – about 25 minutes; oven preheated to 450 degrees (230 degrees C).

As soon as the dough has been slashed, moisten the surface either by painting with a soft brush dipped in cold water, or with a fine spray atomizer, and slide the baking sheet onto rack in upper third of preheated oven. Rapidly paint or spray dough with cold water after 3 minutes, again in 3 minutes, and a final time 3 minutes later. Moistening the dough at this point helps the crust to brown and allows the yeast action to continue in the dough a little longer. The bread should be done in about 25 minutes; the crust will be crisp, and the bread will make a hollow sound when thumped.

If you want the crust to shine, paint lightly with a brush dipped in cold water as soon as you slide the baking sheet out of oven. (My bread is shine and lovely).

Step 11: Cooling – 2 to 3 hours.

Cool the bread on a rack or set it upright in a basket or large bowl so that air can circulate freely around each piece. Although bread is always exciting to eat fresh from the oven, it will have a much better taste when the inside is thoroughly cool and has composed itself.

Step 12: Storing French bread
Because it contains no fats or preservatives of any kind, French bread is at its best when eaten the day it is baked. It will keep for a day or two longer, wrapped airtight and refrigerated, but it will keep best if you freeze it – let the loaves cool first, then wrap airtight. To thaw, unwrap and place on a baking sheet in a cold oven; heat the oven to 400 degrees. In about 20 minutes the crust will be hot and crisp, and the bread thawed. The French, of course, never heat French bread except possibly on Monday, the baker’s holiday, when the bread is a day old.

Step 13: Canvas housekeeping
After each bread session, if you have used canvas, brush it thoroughly to remove all traces of flour and hang it out to dry before putting away. Otherwise the canvas could become mouldy and ruin your next batch of dough.